Sunglasses at night: Absolutely stunning Norway

For the next stage of the Norway trip, we decided that a hire car was the best way forward and not so expensive between the three of us, so we picked up our shiny new Golf and headed for the western Fjords. Our driving routes around Norway can be seen on the Google Map here. A fjord is a deep and narrow coastal valley filled by the sea and with steep cliff sides. They are formed by glaciers and found all along the Norwegian coast but those in the west are considered the most stunning.  Our first day was packed as we drove the scenic road along Hardangerfjord, one of Norway's largest fjords and then to Flåm for the Flåmsbana mountain train which ascends over 800m in 45 mins to Myrdal and back down through the most incredibly scenic countryside, past idyllic mountain villages and numerous staggering waterfalls, all alongside a loud coach party of Asian tourists. We then boarded the ferry for a cruise along the Sognefjord, Norway's deepest fjord and arrived at Kaupanger for our first of many nights in a traditional cabin at a resort that had been taken over by bikers all with shiny Harley Davidsons.

Our next stop was in Jostedalsbreen National Park where we donned the crampons and wielded ice axes for a hike on the Nigardsbreen glacier, which was exhilarating despite moving at crawling pace whilst attached by harness to the whole group. Our overnight stop in a cabin beside a huge waterfall was one of our favourite. Another day of outrageously mind-blowing scenery followed as we drove on high into the snowy mountains and down again to see Geirangerfjord, probably Norway's most beautiful fjord from a series of spectacular viewpoints each more stunning than the last. We finished the day driving down the famous Trollstigen (troll's ladder) mountain pass, a thrilling 1:12 steep single-lane mountain road with 11 hairpin bends right alongside an enormous 180m high waterfall, which was voted Norway's best drive. Despite the long day, Jon slipped off later on in the evening to drive the exhilarating road up and down once again! The last leg with the car was out to the coast to drive the Atlantic Road, a windy coastal road connecting a series of 17 islets via bridges where Ali claimed he saw a sea lion, and then on to Trondheim, where we went for a curry.

To make our journey to the north, and take a break from driving, we boarded the Hurtigruten boat, a cruise which runs the length of Norway, for the 24-hour section north crossing the Arctic circle to Bodø. On board, we brushed with the wealthier traveller, enjoying the scenic cruise winding through the sparse arctic islands whilst enjoying the luxury boat with its plush panorama lounge, gymnasium and buffet breakfast. In Bodø we picked up another car and made a three-day round trip through the Lofoten and Vesterålen islands, an archipegalo of arctic islands with tall craggy mountains that fall away steeply to incongruous white sand beaches and crystal clear water in fishing villages where the smell from racks of drying cod is ubiquitous. They are a miniature version of Norway and apparently the prettiest islands in the world (according to the Norway tourist board). The highlight at Andenes, our furthest north point, was the whale safari where sightings were guaranteed in the deep fjord water fed by the gulf stream and we were not disappointed. We saw a large pod of at least 30 pilot whales playing around the boat for a long time as well as a sperm whale surfacing several times in between dives.

In summer at 69 degrees North the sun still shines at midnight and it is light around the clock. We all went a little mad and even did some midnight sightseeing after our long drive back to Bodø to see the Saltstraumen at 1am. Here, the world's biggest tidal maelstrom (whirlpool) is formed when the huge tide causes 400 million cublic metres of water to flow in and out of the Skjerstadfjorden through a narrow 150 metre straight at speeds of 20 knots, and some of us agreed it was well worth seeing.

Finishing our travels in a small campsite at the end of the airport runway, rather weary and exhausted we pack the backpack for the final journey home.