Sunglasses at night: Absolutely stunning Norway

For the next stage of the Norway trip, we decided that a hire car was the best way forward and not so expensive between the three of us, so we picked up our shiny new Golf and headed for the western Fjords. Our driving routes around Norway can be seen on the Google Map here. A fjord is a deep and narrow coastal valley filled by the sea and with steep cliff sides. They are formed by glaciers and found all along the Norwegian coast but those in the west are considered the most stunning.  Our first day was packed as we drove the scenic road along Hardangerfjord, one of Norway's largest fjords and then to Flåm for the Flåmsbana mountain train which ascends over 800m in 45 mins to Myrdal and back down through the most incredibly scenic countryside, past idyllic mountain villages and numerous staggering waterfalls, all alongside a loud coach party of Asian tourists. We then boarded the ferry for a cruise along the Sognefjord, Norway's deepest fjord and arrived at Kaupanger for our first of many nights in a traditional cabin at a resort that had been taken over by bikers all with shiny Harley Davidsons.

Our next stop was in Jostedalsbreen National Park where we donned the crampons and wielded ice axes for a hike on the Nigardsbreen glacier, which was exhilarating despite moving at crawling pace whilst attached by harness to the whole group. Our overnight stop in a cabin beside a huge waterfall was one of our favourite. Another day of outrageously mind-blowing scenery followed as we drove on high into the snowy mountains and down again to see Geirangerfjord, probably Norway's most beautiful fjord from a series of spectacular viewpoints each more stunning than the last. We finished the day driving down the famous Trollstigen (troll's ladder) mountain pass, a thrilling 1:12 steep single-lane mountain road with 11 hairpin bends right alongside an enormous 180m high waterfall, which was voted Norway's best drive. Despite the long day, Jon slipped off later on in the evening to drive the exhilarating road up and down once again! The last leg with the car was out to the coast to drive the Atlantic Road, a windy coastal road connecting a series of 17 islets via bridges where Ali claimed he saw a sea lion, and then on to Trondheim, where we went for a curry.

To make our journey to the north, and take a break from driving, we boarded the Hurtigruten boat, a cruise which runs the length of Norway, for the 24-hour section north crossing the Arctic circle to Bodø. On board, we brushed with the wealthier traveller, enjoying the scenic cruise winding through the sparse arctic islands whilst enjoying the luxury boat with its plush panorama lounge, gymnasium and buffet breakfast. In Bodø we picked up another car and made a three-day round trip through the Lofoten and Vesterålen islands, an archipegalo of arctic islands with tall craggy mountains that fall away steeply to incongruous white sand beaches and crystal clear water in fishing villages where the smell from racks of drying cod is ubiquitous. They are a miniature version of Norway and apparently the prettiest islands in the world (according to the Norway tourist board). The highlight at Andenes, our furthest north point, was the whale safari where sightings were guaranteed in the deep fjord water fed by the gulf stream and we were not disappointed. We saw a large pod of at least 30 pilot whales playing around the boat for a long time as well as a sperm whale surfacing several times in between dives.

In summer at 69 degrees North the sun still shines at midnight and it is light around the clock. We all went a little mad and even did some midnight sightseeing after our long drive back to Bodø to see the Saltstraumen at 1am. Here, the world's biggest tidal maelstrom (whirlpool) is formed when the huge tide causes 400 million cublic metres of water to flow in and out of the Skjerstadfjorden through a narrow 150 metre straight at speeds of 20 knots, and some of us agreed it was well worth seeing.

Finishing our travels in a small campsite at the end of the airport runway, rather weary and exhausted we pack the backpack for the final journey home.  

Back to Europe and balmy Scandinavia

For the final two weeks of our nine month travels we squeezed in one last trip and feeling like a change from the steamy sweaty tropics, decided on somewhere completely different - Norway. Having always sidelined Scandinavia for summer holidays in favour of the warm mediterranean, it felt like now was the time to visit.

We were joined by Jon, Ali's brother, for this trip and met him en route to Oslo. Having made a detailed plan for most of the trip, Jon was massively upstaging us as better prepared for this trip and as we passed through the duty free, he pointed out that the locals were going rather crazy for the booze, suggesting this may be a strong hint about the cost of drink, and everything, in this country.

We checked in to the hostel where our room was costing over three times the usual hotel room budget, just a little worried that we had dropped ourselves into the biggest budget-busting location yet but eager to explore.  Having packed all the warmest clothes we could muster, we now found ourselves sweltering in the unexpected evening heat as we began strolling around Oslo. Apparently it is the hottest start of summer for 100 years! Its a delight to be visiting a European city once again, with cafe-lined boulevards, grassy palace gardens and clearly a prosperous culture. The Norwegians were out everywhere, eating drinking and even sunbathing in the evening sun. 

With just one full day in the city we planned a packed day visiting the National Gallery to see the famous Scream portrait by Norway's Edvard Munch, the Nobel Peace Center (where the only Nobel prize is awarded outside of Sweden) for an exhibition on the current winner, Organisation for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons, and Vigeland sculpture park where over 200 large nude sculptures are incredibly popular.

The train journey west across the country to Bergen, the second city, gave us our first glimpses of the incredible beauty of the country as we travelled at high speed across the central mountains and marvelled through the window at the rolling spectacular of mountain, lake and waterfall vistas with complementary verdant trees and white snow shining in the bright sun. Wow! 

Bergen is a small, attractive coastal city and we were very content strolling the streets around the lake and the harbour where old woodhouses make up the historic waterside wharf and visiting a modern art museum. We went swimming at a busy local pool and ate a picnic lunch in the castle gardens where locals were relaxing and sunbathing on a public holiday. For a day we were locals and even stayed in a suburban apartment we found on Airbnb, feeling a bit guilty that the owner had moved herself into a small room upstairs to rent it out to tourists. Nearby we took the Ulriken cable car quickly up into the mountain wilderness where the view across the city, mountains and out to sea were incredible and we briefly sampled the popular local traditions of hiking.

Indulgence in thoroughly modern Mexico

The night bus to Mexico was pleasant enough, apart from the multiple stops at the border and the bright lights on the bus turned on to wake us up each time. Suddenly it felt like we were back in the first world, as roads had signs, lights and markings and bus drivers wore uniforms with ties! The border crossing was organised and trouble free although Ali questioned the wisdom of Leila rifling through her medicine collection to take her malaria tablet whilst sat in the customs area. Everyone has to push a button which lights a green or red light, for random searching - very amusing. We arrived into a couple of hours early into Merida, not normally a bad thing but, after only a short amount of broken sleep, arriving so early that you can't get into your next hotel room is also far from ideal. Leila, looking scruffy and exhausted, passed out on one of the sunloungers in the hotel grounds at 6am, with the caretaker taking pity on her and bringing her towels to use as a pillow. Ali meanwhile was on a mission back to the bus station after the discovery that he had left his Kindle on the bus! Not entirely his fault as the sudden arrival into Merida was the only time when the bus lights did not come on and we were rushed off the bus in darkness having just woken up. He headed back to the bus station and made it to the depot within an hour of our arrival only to find that the Kindle was nowhere to be seen and the cleaners claiming complete ignorance and directing suspicions at the bus driver who had already left. Not the greatest start to our short time in Mexico!

After re-immersing in the Spanish language and sampling local bureaucracy whilst filing a police report, we ate a hearty Mexican breakfast we headed out to explore Merida, another old colonial town but with more of a Mexican flavour. We only had the afternoon to see a few main sights but at least half of this time was taken up by talking to friendly locals who for one reason or another were determined to recommend local sites of interest and talk enthusiastically about the city's history, receiving three differing accounts about the local cathedral, all told with equal conviction. Maybe we were just being cynical but we smelled a rat as each finished directing us to a local craft market, but since everyone was so enthusiastic though it was hard to walk away!  The city is very attractive and in the evening we saw a local dance performed by young people in the main square which attracted many applauding locals.

Our next stop was the Mayan ruins at Chichén Itzá, reportedly the Eight Wonder of the World or one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, depending on who you speak to. We had to haggle to acquire a guide at a bearable price and in the end an older guide called Miguel ('I am Miguel - remember!') came through. He took us on a tour around the large pyramid like structure, half fully restored, half in a more original state which was used to mark the Spring and Autumn solstices and various other smaller Mayan ruins. Unfortunately visitors are no longer permitted to enter the pyramid and see the jade jaguar inside. But this did not stop Miguel reciting the old opening hours at least three times. From Chichen Itza we were lucky to catch a collectivo, a very reasonably priced shared minibus on to Valladolid where we were just in time for the bus to our final stop in Central America, Cancún.

We were overwhelmed arriving into Cancún, and particularly when we got to The Hotel Zone. Huge high rise hotels and luxury shopping malls line the road along the a long straight with beautiful white sandy beaches and clear sea on both sides. We had booked two nights in one of these large all inclusive resorts to chill out and treat ourselves before flying back. After the previous eight weeks it just seemed like the Land of Excess with extensive facilities including multiple swimming pools, huge buffet meals, and snacks and cocktails available 24 hours a day. It was all a bit much, although Ali was sure to get his money's worth at breakfast, and with the free cocktails and nachos at the pool bar!

This is where our Central American story should end. However unfortunately, so close to the end of our travels we had the worst air journeys either of us has ever experienced. Going into extensive details would take too long and be too painful but the main details are as follows:

- Maintenance issues in Houston meant the plane from Cancún was 2 hours delayed
- Storms in Newark meant we could not land and were running out of fuel
- Refuelling by diverting to North Carolina delayed us further and lost us our place in the queue to land at Newark
- US immigration took so long we missed the last three flights back to Europe that night (by 5 minutes!)
- An 'electrical smell' identified just before take off on the runway of our flight the next day caused the flight to be cancelled
- More bad weather delayed our third attempt to leave Newark
- All in all we were 26 hours late and thoroughly unimpressed!

Fortunately we have two weeks in Norway to come and hope that will enable us to end on a high!